Fashion photography meets Brassai
Autorius: Jekaterina Lavrinec
Brassai (Gyula Halász) is a master of street photography, who revealed the night life of Paris in his photo series. Night streets and habitués of cabarets was one of his favourite themes, which was also dear to such (post)impressionists as Toulouse-Lautrec. Grace Coddington, a creative drector for U.S. “Vogue”, who arranged plenty of fashion photo session collaborating with such photographers as Annie Leibowitz and Craig Mcdean, was inspired by Brassai photography in creating “Paris, Je T’aime” photoshoot in collaboration with Steven Meisel. The working process could be seen at the documentary “The September Issue” (2oo9), which is devoted to the creative kitchen of the American “Vogue”.
Amerikietiško “Vogue” kūrybinė direktorė Grace Coddington yra daugelio originalių mados fotografijos serijų stilistė, pati kadaise dirbusi modeliu. Ji bendradarbiauja su tokiais fotografais kaip Annie Leibowitz ir Craig Mcdean, o idėjas atranda literatūroje ir senų fotografijos meistrų darbuose. Turbūt daugelis prsimena “Alisai Stebuklų šalyje” skirtą foto sesiją, kurioje kartu su Natalia Vodianova dalyvavo įtakingiausi dizaineriai, tokie kaip Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs ir kiti (arba prisimena epizodus iš sesijos “Meduolių namelio” motyvaus, iš dokumentinio filmo “The September Issue”, 2oo9).
Kartu su fotografu Steven Meisel Grace Coddington surengė fotosesiją “Paris, Je T’aime”, kuri įdomi kaip fotografijos klasikos interpretacijos atvejis. Pasak G. Coddington, Paryžiaus kavinių atmosfera ir 20 a. pradžios dvasia, kuri persmelkia šią foto seriją, buvo įkvėpta fotografijos klasiko Brassaï darbais.
Brassaï (tikrasis vardas Gyula Halász) žinomas pirmiausiai kaip naktinio miesto ir jo personažų fotografas. Jaunystėje jis studijavo tapybą ir skulptūrą, dirbo žurnalistu. Pirmuosius savo padarytus foto kadrus jis naudojo kaip savo straipsnių iliustracijas. Jo fotografijos patarėju tapo vos penkeriais metais vyresnis André Kertész, dar vienas išeivis iš Vengrijos, kuris persikėlė į Paryžių ir tapo garsiu miesto fotografu.
Brassai, Girl Playing Snooker, Montmartre, 1933 / André Kertész, Kiki de Montparnasse, Paris 1927
Brassai, Avenue de l’Observatoire, Paris 1934
Savo pirmąjį naktinio miesto nuotraukų albumą, “Naktinis Paryžus”, Brassai paskelbė 1933 metais, ir tik praėjus keturiasdešimčiai metų, pasirodė jo kitas albumas “The Secret Paris of the 30’s” (1976), skirtas naktinio Paryžiaus personažams – kabare lankytojams, prostitutėms, suteneriams, porelėms tamsiose miesto gatvėse.
Ieškant tiek Brassai sukurtų naktinių gyventojų portretų ištakų, tiek Coddington įkvėpimo šaltinio, verta prisiminti post-impresionistų, ypač Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) paveikslus. Paryžiaus kabare šokėjos, aktoriai ir lankytojai buvo viena iš dominuojančių temų šio dailininko kūryboje:
Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, At the Moulin Rouge, 1892/1895
• Grace Coddington surengtos fotosesijos, kurios fragmentai buvo rodomi dokumentiniame filme “The September Issue” (2oo9), rezultatas;
• Keli kadrai iš fotosesijos “Genzel & Grete” (Grace Coddington kartu su Annie Leibovitz);
• bonus ieškantiems paprastesnių mados fotosesijos scenarijų: Gavin Rea
[…] and Brassai at the appartment of Gustave Eiffel – […]
Ir vėl Paryžius! Labai pavasriškas miestas :D
O Coddington darbai paprastai lengviausiai įsimenami, ypač ta serija su Alisa, o dar su Lady Gaga.
[…] posts: Fashion photography: Grace Coddington meets Brassai, Brassai meets Toulouse-Lautrec. Share it […]
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• 2o16, Sept 24-27: Spatial Development Forum, Xtreme Urbanism. St. Petersburg, Russia. Crash-course in DIY urban culture and pannel for the Baltic DIY culture, dr. J. Lavrinec (Laimikis.lt) as one of key-speakers.
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• 2o14, June 20-21: Hosting an international Grundtvig partnership seminar-workshop "Participatory and Arts-based Research Approaches: the engaging tactics of collecting and communicating ethnographic data", Vilnius.
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• 2o14, Feb 21-March 8: Laimikis.lt takes part in running a winter school in Critical Mapping, curating workshops, which focuses on the wooden Šnipiškės.
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• 2o13 Nov 24-28: Visit to Fargfabriken, Stockholm. The Baltic meeting on art tactics, promoting citizen participation.
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• Starting from Oct 27: Street blogging session by and in Coffee Inn at Pilies str., Vilnius
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